Locked out of your car?
We come to the vehicle.

Modern car door locks fall into a few categories, and we have the tools for all of them. Older vehicles (pre-2005 or so) open with a slim-jim or long-reach tool that manipulates the internal linkage — 2-to-5 minute job. Newer vehicles with side-impact airbags can't use slim-jims safely; we use a wedge-and-probe technique that inflates a small gap in the door frame and reaches the unlock button or manual lever without touching anything else. European luxury (Audi, Porsche, VW, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo) often has shielded linkage and encrypted immobilizers that require specialized tools and dealer-level programming equipment, which we carry. For replacement keys or proximity fobs on these makes we program them on-site with the same dealer tooling — no tow to the dealership, no $1,000+ dealer bill.

What this means practically: we don't drill your car. We don't bend frames or damage weatherstripping. The door opens, you get back in, and the vehicle is exactly as you left it. For lockouts where the key is actually in the car (most common — keys on the seat, keys in the trunk), we're just opening the door. For lockouts where the key is genuinely lost or broken, we can usually cut and program a replacement on-site from your VIN for any vehicle year 2000 or newer, no tow to a dealer required.

Pricing depends on the vehicle (older and standard American are faster than European luxury), time of day, and whether key replacement is needed. We quote firm before dispatch — no surprise charges when we arrive.

Trunk lockout with keys inside the trunk. Common at a grocery lot after unloading, at a gas station, or at the end of a road trip. We open the main cabin first (trunk releases are usually accessible from inside), then unlock the trunk mechanically or electrically depending on the vehicle. Non-destructive.

Steering lock engaged — key won't turn. You put the key in, it won't turn, the steering wheel feels locked. This happens when you shut the car off while turning the wheel and the steering lock engages. Fix is usually gentle back-and-forth pressure on the wheel while turning the key — but if that doesn't work, the cylinder may be seized or the steering lock mechanism failed. We diagnose on-site.

Proximity fob stopped working after battery replacement. You swapped the coin cell and now the fob won't unlock, or the car won't recognize it. Usually a re-pair rather than a replacement — we re-sync the fob to the immobilizer on-site for most makes.

Emergency blade works but the car won't start. The mechanical backup blade in your fob opens the door, but the push-button start doesn't recognize the fob — car's ignition is dead. Usually an immobilizer-recognition issue, sometimes a dead fob internal, occasionally a car-side fault. We diagnose and can program a replacement fob on-site if that's what's needed.

Immobilizer light flashing and car won't start. The car doesn't recognize the key and the immobilizer is blocking start. Can be a key-chip failure, a dead fob battery, or a car-side immobilizer fault. We read the immobilizer state and tell you honestly whether it's a key problem or a car problem — we don't sell you a new key if the issue is actually in the car.

Proximity key works intermittently. Sometimes unlocks, sometimes doesn't. Sometimes starts the car, sometimes the car says "no key detected." Usually a failing battery (first thing we check), a degrading fob antenna (common after 6-8 years), or in rare cases a car-side antenna fault. Cheapest fix first, honest diagnosis.